Check out time at the capsule hotel was 10 a.m. on Saturday, so with our train home leaving at 1:10 p.m., we had a few hours to hang out. We decided we would get near Tokyo Station, an area we had not seen any of because on the way in we went straight from our train to the subway. Even the hallways from station to station are really long, some at least a quarter mile with merciless flights of stairs at the end. But at least we knew that all of the train stations, stores, museums, and subways have been great about having cheap lockers to store our backpacks, so we figured we could drop those off and look for something to eat.
Yeah right.
This was Tokyo Station, one of the busiest stations in the world and all of the lockers were full. I found an employee who tried to tell me how to get to other lockers, but I simply could not understand her. I had read that there was more English in Tokyo than Osaka, but I didn’t find that to be true. I waved Katie-the-hangry over; she has gotten really good at understanding people and knew the clerk was telling us to turn right at the second yellow sign. But when we got to those lockers, they were all full also. Just then, a man came up and got his stuff out, so lucky break, we got a locker big enough for both backpacks for 500 yen.
We headed upstairs from the subway to find food. Honestly I am exhausted with constantly trying to find food. Like most Americans I really hate to complain–at least we have food to find. Most people really love Japanese food, and maybe it’s because I’ve been here so long, but my taste buds have revolted and today really put us to the test. Perhaps it was because of all the concrete buildings but even Katie’s map was just spinning around–mine wouldn’t even load. She could tell there was a 7-11 nearby, so we started walking. I was worried we would get lost and without our map really be in trouble. But Katie assured me she knew where we were.
It was the most corporate downtown area I have ever seen. It was 100% skyscrapers and buildings with beautiful lobbies. Block after block there were zero restaurants, no shops, and definitely no 7-11. We realized that all of the above were hosted within the buildings and some were underground. We searched out a couple buildings, following signs and taking stairs and escalators through a bizarre series of hallways and nothing was open. Then we realized it was Saturday. Duh.
At last we found an open Starbucks, which neither of us wanted. I actually can’t see going to a Bux ever again I’m so tired of it, but we were out of options and wanted to look around the city, not just be annoyed looking for food.
There were 3 sandwiches remaining in the case. Katie grabbed the chicken club sandwich. There was no way I was eating ham and root vegetables or chicken with gravy sandwich before 11 a.m., so I got pretzels and had a couple bites of Katie’s sandwich. If I had a picture of her face–it was bacon, egg, lettuce, with a weird red sauce and when she bit into the chicken on the top layer, the whole piece came out and really she looked like she would be sick trying to chew it with her hand over her mouth. But we got through it and after a couple bites of blueberry scone at least had the energy to get through the day.
The buildings were just lovely and everywhere there were excited people coming and going from the station on this sunny, 75 degree day. The architecture of Tokyo Station looks fairly European.
The trains come and go so quickly here that our train arrived with less than 15 minutes until we were to depart. I noticed that employees stood at the entrance to each of the 16 train cars. As soon as the passengers disembarked, each employee rushed onto their car. First, they turned the seats around–ha! So that was how they made it so they didn’t have to turn the train around! Then they replaced the towel on the headrest of each seat. Then they swept off each seat and the floor. By the time we got on 5 minutes later, the train was once again spotless. Katie joked that she’d never seen this because she doesn’t arrive so “early.” We pulled out of the station at exactly 1:10 p.m.
Katie had the idea that we should get seats on the opposite side of the train for the way home so we could see what the other side looked like–brilliant! It was really different because I didn’t realize we were so close to the water. Several times there were views of Tokyo Bay and Sagami Bay, flashing between the mountains and tunnels in lush, lovely waterfronts. 
Again there were flooded rice fields and factories, many names of which I recognized. As we got closer to Mount Fuji, I kept peering out the opposite windows and finally, WOW, there it was!!!!
Katie found out on the way home that her really good friend was coming into town from Hiroshima at the last minute. I was scheduled to go to another InterNations meet-up that night. We were both sooooo tired we just wanted to rest, but it would have to wait! We got home around 4:30 p.m. I jumped in the shower and got changed and was at Balabushka Bar in Shinsaibashi at 6 p.m. It was a mile walk so I left early–Katie and I had walked over 32 miles in Tokyo. I was really glad I went, as I knew I would be.
Balabushka is a Japanese equivalent of a sports bar and it was happy hour. I saw my friends who live in Canada and whose daughter lives here with their grandson. I learned from the daughter about her traditional Japanese wedding and saw pictures of her in a beautiful white kimono. The woman who was at the last meeting and was leaving for Taiwan for vacation said Taiwan was amazing! She and the coordinator, the guy from Michigan who has worked here 12 years, complained about Osaka becoming so touristy. I laughed because Orlando is only tourists, but I could see what they meant when they mocked people walking around in fake kimonos. I confirmed through talking to him that the men I had seen last month were in fact actual Sumo wrestlers and he taught me about the rich traditions of the sport.
On the way in I met a young woman from Denmark who is here going to university. I got to talk at length with a young woman from Vietnam who is working here and whose brother lives in Austin, Texas. She hopes to visit him with her parents next year. There was another guy from Finland who works in Osaka, who noted he was working in Los Angeles during 9-11. Another guy was from India and several people were born and raised in Osaka. And those were just the people I met! There were probably 20 others from all over the world.
I spent the next couple days just decompressing. It felt like we’d taken a much longer trip, so much was squeezed into those 3 days and nights. I marveled that Katie knew she would like to live in Osaka rather than Tokyo. Before she applied for the job, I had never heard of Osaka. Tokyo was incredible, but so beyond compare it was impossible to think of living there. I am sure like anything else you’d get used to it, but Katie was excited to see her subway, her streets, her city, and so was I.
Right before we left I had to move to a new apartment in the same building. I was in a bigger apartment with 2 beds that was reserved the next week, so I moved down one flight to the 2nd floor. If it’s possible it is even better; definitely the best apartment I’ve had so far! It is long and narrow with windows on 3 sides. One overlooks the street and has a chair I use even now while I’m typing and watching outside. The huge Pachinko parlor that is just down the street from Katie’s place is right on the corner from my window. I’ve been watching a steady stream of cars coming and going at all hours. It’s been great to chill and it’s like being in the city even without leaving the apartment. 
The bottom 2 floors of the red building are the casino, with the other 6 stories a parking garage. If you look closely you can see many bicycles parked also. There is an older man directing traffic in and out of the garage; if you zoom in you can see him in his black cap, white gloves, and red vest. People come and go along the street at all hours. The trash pick-up in Osaka is nightly around 1 a.m., so there are always trucks moving through. I enjoy hearing the sounds of the city and though it does not feel like home, the city definitely seems more comfortable now that I understand it a little better.
Photo: Ceiling in Tokyo subway
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