With over 33 miles of porticoes covering the sidewalks of Bologna, the longest one leads to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca. We started out Tuesday morning, thinking mayyyybe we would climb uphill to the church, but maybe not.
There are 666 porticoes leading up to the sanctuary. Not 666 steps, but porticoes, long tall arches. Every year an icon of the Madonna with Child is carried from the church to city center, with the 666 arches representing the conquering of evil. It is the longest portico in the world.
The arches are numbered periodically and we had already passed under a hundred or so on flat ground, so by the time we started heading uphill, we were pretty ready to go to the top.
There are 12 sanctuaries along the way, small areas with paintings or statues that tell the story of Jesus and his ascension into heaven. Many of the pillars of the arches have memorials plaques on them. The day was a bit foggy but still we could see the Stadio Renato Dell’Ara, the stadium where F.C. Bologna (Bologna Football Club) plays.
There were not many people climbing the hill that day and soon we were glad it was only 50 degrees because at about 350 arches, we were already warm. Sometimes there were stairs, other times ramps, up up up. We didn’t see anyone change their minds and turning around–once you started climbing you just kept going.
Around 490 arches in, it seemed like soon you will be at the top, no problem. Then there were steps, much harder to climb and we were moving slowly. Maybe around 550 it became much harder, with many flights of steps, and it all seemed appropriate that we should have to work very hard to get to the top. I saw one lady with rosary beads moving through her fingers.
At the top of the stairs you could see a simple cross urging you to keep going, only then to turn left and find more stairs.
This church encouraged everyone to come inside. And there as you opened the small door there was the most amazing sight of candles and light and it was warm inside, not ice cold like so many other cathedrals. There was a door to the right of the altar, beckoning you to go up to the Madonna and stand there. The marble was in all the colors, purple, white, black, green, with gold trimming all the edges.
We sat for a long time, just resting. It was peaceful and quiet. There were signs on the doors: Silencio.
Mike realized he had broken into a full sweat walking up the hill. He used the opportunity to review the importance of dressing properly, a lecture the kids and I have heard for years haha. In fact, it was a safety mantra in our household: Cotton Kills. Sounds funny but it’s so important, so here’s your Public Service Announcement. It was lucky Mike had worn a knit shirt because it dried out quickly. If he had cotton on, he would have gotten a chill and the inside of his coat was very damp. Layers are key and don’t wear only cotton.
The way down was much easier of course, but still a long way and we stopped at portico 200 or so for a rest and small bite and water. We still had miles to get back to the apartment, but oh by the way there are also random amazing cathedrals plopped into neighborhoods. Wow!!
At dark, we set out to find Beer 4 Bunnies, awwww. It turned out to be a small, perfect little bar like one of our favorites Falcon Bar. We had a glass of Pale Ale and an IPA, which are different than American beer but still refreshing and delicious! People with the kids and dogs sat inside and out, just like our Hourglass Brewery.
We went back to the Piazza Maggiore, maybe for some food. Now there was so much confetti and streamers everywhere–there must’ve have been a party or maybe a kids birthday celebration!
Home by 8:30 or so, we watched President Biden speak live in Warsaw, dubbed in Italian and we thought about where to go next. We really have no idea and keep changing our minds. A frontrunner is Germany, but they are having on-again/off-again airline strike, which complicates train travel, so we just don’t know. Soon we leave Bologna, so guess we’d better figure it out!
Fun fact: We each bought a pair of socks at like a….sock store. Mike’s were made in Serbia and mine in Turkey. Huh!
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