Sorrento

Getting to Sorrento was hard.

The day started off nicely enough. Cory took us to a nice place for some light pastries and macchiatos. There were a couple men who were really pestering for food or money, something Cory said was very surprising and he does not encounter much, but maybe they knew I’m a softie.

We walked to an amazing, large, city park. There was a villa inside which used to be someone’s house but now is a public place. The main windows overlook the walkway all the way to the Sea, with yet another stunning view from the top.

We were feeling pretty confident as a left their apartment. He had shown us where to take the metro (subway) to the train station, and in fact we took it the night before. You don’t even have to buy a ticket–just tap your credit card on the ticket thing as you walk through the gate.

It was very crowded on the metro–standing room only. We had to go many stops, but no problem. At one point a man got in the car and made an announcement. The only word I got was famiglia (family). Some loud recorded accordion music started and he and his 10 year old son took turns tapping loudly on a small drum. Then the boy walked from person to person with his hand out asking for money. At the next stop, they exited the train and went to the next car.

We got into the station fine, but it is VERY big. In fact I was reminded of Umeda in Japan (see post for how scary that was!). The main train system in Italy is Trenitalia, but there are trains and levels and buses going all over the country. It turns out that Sorrento, our next destination, is not serviced by Trenitalia but by another company. A girl at a service desk directed us to “go right.” ?? We wandered around just feeling confused. Another girl said, not Trenitalia, go to that desk, and she pointed. That girl said Line 2, Platform 1. Okkkkkkk, where do we get the tickets? She didn’t know. Go to the ticket desk on the right, and she kept waving us away.

So we walked quite a ways and indeed, there was a different desk. 2 tickets for Sorrento please. Ok, which station. ?? This time we had booked a hotel so we figured that out. 2 tickets for Sorrento please. Ok, but you have to change trains in….no idea, I couldn’t understand her but whatever, we got on the train. It was standing room only, but really it’s only 45 minutes so big deal.

We verified with another rider that YES, this train goes all the way to Sorrento woo! And in fact it ends at Sorrento, cool, we can’t miss our stop! Mike said the girl must’ve been wrong or confused because the train map showed Sorrento and so did google maps. Yay! And now we got a seat so even better!

Except then we got to that stop she mentioned and the train just stopped and never moved again. Gradually everyone started getting off the train. We followed our team and an English speaking persistent lady confirmed that yes, this is the way to Sorrento. Ok, where? “Walk to the bus station, it’s a replacement train.” Okkkkkk……..

So we walk a few blocks and heavy as my backpack was I can tell you I was glad to not pull a suitcase across the cobblestone streets. And, now we could see the buses yay! Except I lost my ticket. Yep, I did. I literally had it in my hand to show the lady and now it was not in any pocket or purse. I really have to review my travel habits. But that’s tomorrow’s problem…

We waited in line for the bus but it was full. No problem because now was another bus and no one asked for my ticket. And it was clean and many seats and there was a beautiful view of the sea–maybe bus travel is the way to go here!

Except now our driver stopped, backed the bus into an impossible spot, and opened the door……ok……….Sorrento? Si, take the train. Seriously I’m gonna tell you I was feeling pretty dispirited at this point.

So we again followed our Sorrento clan and walked to the train station, and thankfully no one asked for my ticket. Good grief.

And the train took us to Sorrento. Mike claimed that our hotel was only 7 minutes from the train station. Whateverrrrrr.

This time google maps took us down a main street, then up some narrow stairs, then down and alley. And shazam! there was our hotel name on a door AND a woman, Helena, at a desk. And bonus, she spoke English, and double bonus, she was friendly and helpful! She asked how we got here and we told her about our experience. Ohhhh, si, she said, yes last week they had a problem with the train track. I thought, that would have been very helpful information along with how to manage it, but it worked out.

Our room was small, cozy, clean and everything we need for 3 (!!!) nights. And we were welcomed by beautiful clanging church bells right down the street for several minutes! Here we hope to regroup and rest (ha!) before heading to Sicily, which we expect to be more confusion. So far southern Italy has been absolutely amazing, but I sense that if you like to have an itinerary this may not be the place for you. Especially in the off season, where maybe things are open, maybe they are not. And if they are, time is flexible and more of an estimate.

We really were not prepared for what turned out to be such a long train/bus ride. Katie had reminded us to always bring snacks, and as I watched a girl eat a yummy sandwich I made another mental note to stock up before traveling. We stopped at a small cafe and had a parmigiana sandwich and this nice dessert. Cory had told us they grown Sorrento lemons here and make all sorts of things with them. And in fact we saw lemon trees laden with bright yellow lemons!

We wandered down to the port where the helpful Helena had suggested. Like so much of Europe, there were many stairs down and long climb up to an amazing view of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius from the other side of the bay.

Below was an old fishing village. We watched men repairing fishing nets with a special tool I’ve never seen.

There was a sweet little store along the road and we picked up cheese, an orange, olives, and water. We enjoyed a glass of wine from a bottle Sabrine had sent with us. So far, all of the hotels have a cork screw in the refrigerator–they just know you are bringing wine!

The orange was juicy and delicious! The groceries here are very inexpensive. In fact, all the restaurants we have eaten in Italy are less expensive than the USA. Cory explained that the coffee prices here are regulated by the government–1.10 euro for a cup of espresso.

Even though we already walked 7 miles, we felt good enough for another short exploration after a bit of rest. The temperatures are falling and I’m even getting a weather warning of a wind alert on Pokemon Go, haha. But we braved the evening and scoped out possible restaurants for tomorrow.

It is interesting to have the news on in other countries. Like right now they are showing a band doing a good job pretending to be the band Queen. A woman is singing a lot of Freddie Mercury’s parts. They just showed the USA shooting down the China balloon. Two days ago they showed the footage of the US police chasing the double amputee. And they are showing a lot about the anarchist who is hunger striking, Alfredo Cospito. There have been a lot of clashes with the police here, so we will watch for that. They have been covering Pope Francis’s trip to Africa as well.

Now to see what our restful days look like!